A south Canara Offroading story — 2021.
When I set out with Ravi for an off-roading trip in his gipsy didn't know what would be our route map for the next 4 days, I went with a hidden agenda of sleeping on the drive endlessly. I love sleeping in moving vehicles. Is there a word for that? Narcolepsy I guess…. anyways I immensely love that experience, but don't ever try … it gives you neck and back cramps and also gains a lot of wrath of the driver and he/she might not call you next time for the trip.
The trip turned out of one of the best I ever had. My idea of an ideal trip is spending a lot of time with the locale and get chances to understand the local culture. In this case, the trip organiser, Sunil — the avid off-roader made sure we stay with locals in their homes and that gave me a lot of time to understand their life and be part of it and imbibe certain things. Thanks to Sunil and family, to accommodate such vagabonds with them.
Our first stop after driving out of Bangalore was Hornado, almost 8–9 hours drive from home. It would be a great miss if I don't mention how Ravi drove all those hours( i am buttering him now!, I am hooked to that gipsy and drives it can take me. Not to mention, Ravi is a very willing driver, he lets me take my power naps between my snacks!). The roads which we passed through were scenic and in good condition. Considering pandemic conditions we stopped in minimal places. Just two pitstops for a breakfast and another for a Tea. Both delectable.
Hornadu welcomed us with the fresh hot delicious afternoon lunch. There we met with the most enthusiastic off-roaders I have ever interacted — Sunil and his family with Anu and Tejas. He was accompanied by his mother and her sister as well in this. I should say a big feat for these elderly ladies to be in these long trips on such roads. And there are no second guesses for understanding where Sunil inherits his penchant for travel from!
Let me not forget mentioning the people at Haramakki Tapovana homestay. They were ever serving us with a copious amount of delicious food and laced with a smile always. We enjoyed the typical south Canara food with coconuts, fresh veggies, chitrannas, thuvve (daal) and gojju (vegetable cooked in tamarind) etc for the next day. Always an extra dollop was waiting for us once we finished ours on our plate, such as their service. thanks to Prasad and his team there, we loved the stay.
After the drive from Bangalore, we should have taken a break, but caught on the spirit of the group to go a trek to the nearest rockery and what it turned out to be!. One of the difficult ones, where we had to crawl in most of the places… glad I ate that extra serving of ghee, that was the only thing which helped me cross that stream too. I promise! But the experience was awesome induced by the enthusiasm which was brought by 2 teenagers and a 10-year-old who was with us. Others were trying to catch up with these smallies, but we weren't far behind, but it was totally worth it. What kind of rocks we saw, how the beautiful streams meandered inside rocks and on rocks, and the bamboo forests were giving enough canopy for that mid-afternoon trek. So that gave me a glimpse of what I could look forward to in the next 4 days. So if this is off-roading… bring it on!
Sunil and family made sure you are always grounded by regular temple visits. We visited two temples in the evening and for back to the homestay just in time for another hearty dinner and sound comfy sleep.
Early in the morning, Prasad took me and Ravi to the Kyatanamakki. This is a place where I would want to come back n number of times. Offroading to the hilt it was to reach this peak, but the views which it had were breathtaking. For other off-roaders, Prasad owns a homestay there too and can accommodate five families comfortably and a stay there would be the best to be had, between the greens, hills and clouds. There are many trekking paths there to explore and willing hosts to take you off-roading all the time.
Kyantanmakki — there are multiple viewpoints here which are trekkable and also off-roading to these are also fun. One of those points had a super view of multiple hills with clouds on them. And should say only view in this world till now which had made me tearful was that!
Near here is the Annapurneshwari temple is interesting to visit and so is their famous lunch, which we couldn't taste. Please note that there is a shop here which sells the most exciting juice which is worth a try, so is the local produce here.
Our next stop was Shringeri after almost five hours of drive. We were stationed in an old traditional Canara home which had a courtyard in the middle, with granaries and workshops for coffee and areca nuts on other sides. These homestays were run by a family by name — Keremane. The homes were huge but spic and span and beautiful. Their mornings start with milking cows, cleaning yards, collecting flowers for the lord and singing hymns in the kitchen while preparing the coffee. What an environment to be in for the morning routine of yoga, I totally loved the vibe of it. Once the daylight and explored the yard of the house it was huge and filled with trees, coffee plantations, herbs and areca nuts. Their main crops are areca nuts and coffee.
But the most amazing thing which we spotted there was the big fat tall 300-year-old mango tree. I couldn't help to embrace the tree and could feel a lot of energy there. The tree had a big crevice, through which u can go to space, which can host 3 people. The tree still gives fruits and they are yummy small mangoes which are used for curries with coconuts.
The Keremane house has a huge spice garden, which is worth a visit for all plantsmen. This house hosts summer camps for Carnatic music by various artists as well.
We visited Shringeri temple and ashram, was a nice heritage site.
The next fascinating stop for us was the forest temple in KIOCL — Kudremukh Iron Ore Company Limited. A dilapidated temple in the middle of a forest which was quite functional when KIOCL was operational. As of now it is visited only by a passerby and is not in a self-sustainable state. Moves are being made by Sunil and friends to revive this temple.
Our next homestay was very well in the jungle Gundimane near jog falls. Beautiful ensconced in the forest, place of stay which was cosy as well as a bit unnerving with its huge expanse. Staying here we visited the nearby falls, Bheemeshawara temple and Off roaded to a lake nearby.
The Bheemeshawara temple is another spectacular spot for off-roaders. A beautiful centuries-old temple nestled in the forest between rocks and waterfalls. This temple is said to have built by Bheema for his mother during Shiva Ratri during their exile. So it is in such a spot, away from prying eyes. Such a beautiful one at that, you would be mesmerised by the temple structure, sanctum sanctorum, the linga, the way water is falling thru the rocks and huge Nandi statue. We were there for a pooja, Rudra Homa, So could interact with locals and the first thing which touches about them is simplicity and sincerity. They want you to have the best of time there from puja to darshan to the ever delicious temple food.
We drove to a nearby offbeat spot of a lake where we got to really go offroad and through dense forest ways. Should experience such things in safe softs is a suggestion which I have for such trips.
The experience was great for each one of us and there were many learnings — for me in terms of off-roading experience as a whole, to be appreciative of the driving skills these drivers posses to be safe so that others in the car can enjoy yet another beautiful (not so common) sight.
I am very thankful to this team which includes Sunil, Anu, Nilena, Manish and their tots for this lovely and enriching experience. All the references are below please do visit and stay in these gems.
References: Ravi: https://www.instagram.com/ravikanniganti/
Contacts at major spots
Hornadu: Prasad: 9480470328
Bheemeshawara: Chandrashekar Swami: 9449776729,
Jo Mon: 9483667641 ( a very enterprising kid, who is a guide)
Shringeri: Keremane House: 094486 94288
Jog Falls: Guddumane Harsha: 9980100975
